Thursday, 4 February 2021

Late Roman Camp

 

I struggled for a while to think of how to depict a fortified camp for my Romans. Although there are some excellent castings of classic Roman camps fortifications and tents available, these never look right to me when the constraints of a 120 x 80mm base leaves space for only one or two tents - hardly enough for a patrol let alone a whole army! I considered just doing one corner of the camp or a gatehouse but that only really works if the camp is placed against a table edge.

Of course the camp doesn't need to be a literal camp - just something to represent logistics or something of consequence if captured by the enemy. In the case of a fortified camp, it also needs to look defensible. Whilst browsing for ideas, I came across this picture of a reconstructed Roman watchtower on Wikimedia Commons by Longbow4u under a creative commons licence.

So I decided to make my camp a scene around a roman watchtower based on this one. Apparently it was later realised that Roman watchtowers had an extra story - it must be said that the reconstruction looks rather stubby and not likely to provide a very good vantage point but stubby was good for my purposes as I wanted the complete camp to fit in a Useful Box with the rest of the army.

My start point for construction was a couple of 40x40mm laser-cut MDF bases as floors, two more as sides for the lower story and two 40x30mm bases as sides for the top story. I cut the other sides by hand from 2mm MDF then drilled holes for the rounded tops of the arched windows and door. The floors and roof were cut from mount board and the main base unit, again, was laser-cut MDG, backed with self-adhesive magnetic sheet from Magnetic Displays.

To populate the scene around the tower, I bought the pig-roast set from Baueda and re-purposed a couple of standard bearers (chosen because they were not carrying shields): a stocky Asgard figure in a round hat to act as the cooking supervisor and a standard bearer from Gladiator Miniatures, repurposed as an auxiliary infantryman who'd set his shield aside, to look out from the viewing platform. The Baueda figures have short-sleeved tunics so I modified them with a bit of filing and Miliput to have long sleeves to match with my other auxiliary infantry.

And there I stalled for a long time. 

Two obstacles: a ladder to provide access to the platform and how to make the characteristic X-shaped railings? 

I ran through various ideas for the railings, none of which seemed practical but the eventual solution was quite easy. I cut the rails and uprights from 1mm square section plastic and glued them together on a carefully drawn template. For the Xs , I cut a trip of 0.7mm Plasticard, scribed it off to the correct height with the sharp corner of my vernier calipers, drew on the X and cut it out with a sharp knife. It sounds a faff but it really was quite easy, if repetitive.


The ladders arrives in a pack of two long lengths from Plastruct - gives me some spare to be left in Normandy orchards, barns or wherever. The side rails on the ladders are very thick so I thinned them down considerably before painting.

The roof tiles are the last of the Wills Pantiles, that I used for my Italian Wars buildings. Flushed with enthusiasm, I ordered another pack with future ideas of renaissance towers and 4th C basilica. The ridge tiles are bamboo barbecue skewers with a V sanded onto one side and thin saw cuts 3 or 4 mm apart on the other then whittled to give the appearance of overlapping tiles.

I used my usual buildings technique of sticking on small rectangles cut from old business cards to represent stone blocks then gave the wall and roof surfaces a wash over of dilute filler to add texture and smooth out the sharp corners. 


As I mentioned, I wanted the finished camp to fit in a Really Useful box and even with this "one story short of a tower" reconstruction, that wasn't possible so I decided to split the roof off, attached with magnetic sheets into a square recess.


I paint pantile roofs with a tester pot of terracotta textures masonry paint. Next, I pick out individual tiles in contrasting tones of browns and greens. At this stage, it has far too much contrast but it all works out in the end. The next step is a wash of black Humbrol enamel and white spirit then finally (done after the photo below) a dry brush of the original masonry paint to blend it all back in 


I follow a similar process for the walls but with even more dry brushing. After an initial coat of DecoArt Country Maple, I dry brush Antique Gold (actually a yellow ochre) and Sandstone before picking out individual "stones" in different shades of brown, grey and green then more dry brushing with gradually lighter tones to blend it all back. There is no particular logic to the colour variations but the earlier buildings I did without this step just looked a bit plain.


The base is covered with the same combination of filler, grit, sand, static grass and tufts that I use for all my figure and scenery basing.

As well as the figures and pig roast set, I made a couple of spears and shields and discarded helmet from a spare Minifigs figure, as though the two cooks had set their weapons aside for a while whilst they prepare the food for the rest of their colleagues in the Petulantes Seniores.










19 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Thank you Cyrus. Getting the gamp finished feels like a milestone. I'm well on with painting another general and a unit of horse archers - after that I only have two infantry units and two more generals to complete the basic army.

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  2. the camp is brillant ! the guy who made it is a "f...." Genius !!!
    to re-use the Madaxeman tee-shirt logo!;-)

    Kind regards.

    PUNCH

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    1. Thank you PUNCH. Not sure I get your Madaxeman tee-shirt reference though :-).

      I like your Xyston Samnites. They really show how far wargames figures have come on since these ancient Minifigs and Asgard figures that I'm working through.

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    2. THE MADAXEMAN had a cool tee shirt saying that is a "f.... Genius" when he came to Britcon , I think you deserve to have one for the jewel you done , the conversions you created are really inspiring for me.

      Xyston miniatures are great, easy to convert and paint, it help to have a neat result, what you're doing with the good old sculpt is Something stunning!

      Kind regards.

      Gilles

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    3. I don't think I could carry off wearing such a T-shirt but thank you for the extravagantly kind words. I told my wife - she laughed and is rather sceptical :-)

      There are a lot of blogs with amazing conversions of 28mm figures that really inspired me: je-lay-emprins and stuartsworkbench especially, but not so much in 15mm. I think people must be put off by the small size but that means you don't need as much detail or be as perfect with sculpted additions to still get a pleasing result.

      When I've reduced the lead mountain to a more manageable height I'm going to treat myself to an army with Xyston or similar modern figures. Something to look forward to, although it might be a year or two away at my current rate!

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  3. Splendid looking camp vignette! Your terracotta tiles are really good, I'm not overly happy with my renaissance town roofs, I might try your version on future ones!
    Best Iain

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    1. Thanks Iain. I got a sample pot of Sandtex terracotta lightly textured masonry paint years ago and have been using it since. I think the texture and colour is perfect for this but I don't know what I'll do when it runs out as I haven't seen it anywhere since.

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  4. Replies
    1. Thank you Tony. I appreciate you, and everybody else, taking the trouble to comment. It is always nice to know I'm not only talking to myself here.

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  5. Replies
    1. Thank you Codsticker. I hesitate to ask but "Codsticker"?

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  6. What a great idea for a camp and smashing work from top to bottom.

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  7. Splendid work! The use of the bamboo skewers is maddeningly inventive, as is diluting the filler (me, I just slap the stuff on raw and thick, putting at risk all lintels and the like). Funnily enough, I have an order of Wills pantiles winging its way here. Are they very hard to cut up? And other tip would also be greatly appreciated, naturally.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Veroo.

      The plastic for the pantiles is quite soft so it is easy to cut with a sharp craft knife at the cost of not sanding or filing very well. Best, I think to cut along the lines of the tiles and - because that restricts the size options, work back from there to the building size.

      The surface feels a bit greasy so I have roughed up the surfaces to be glued and given them a good scrub with detergent prior to painting. I use EvoStick contact adhesive to fix the plastic to the rest of the model because it stays a bit flexible and adheres well to a non-porous surfaces.

      Although I didn't do it for this model, for the buildings I did for my 16th C Italian Wars collection, I stuck the sheet to a cardboard backing so the plastic would have a full surface contact then I could just use PVA to stick the card to the rest of the building, allowing for some adjustment.

      Good luck with your buildings and please let me know how it goes.

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    2. Thank you for the insights, they're incredibly helpful. Truth be told, I was a little more than worried about the pantile sheets upon seeing the picture in this post, as they look a lot thicker than what I had been expecting. Cutting along the lines seems obvious enough, but what if they're diagonal, like yours? Thanks again!

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    3. The sheets are thicker than I had expected too. It hasn't been a problem for me - I just paint them as the tiles and a wooden support along the edge but I'm using them for 15mm for which they are already way over-scale so a bit of inaccuracy and simplification along the edges is the least of my worries!

      The plastic is easy to cut anywhere - I only cut along the edges to avoid having half-tiles, which I thought would look odd, not because it would have been difficult to cut elsewhere. I arranged the diagonal so the point came at the vertical join/overlap of two tiles for the same reason but I don't think it would really have been noticeable. At normal distances, once it is all painted, you only get the general effect anyway.

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    4. A thousand thanks for the additional tips, kind sir. I must say I am a little more heartened as a result, so fingers crossed!

      Personally I don't find the tiles overscale at all, but then again I've never had a problem with most makers' figure proportions either!

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